Sewed pocket slant and finished seam with zigzag. Pattern calls to topstitch the pocket/seam down but I didn’t want to topstitch the nap so I understitched the pocket to the seam allowance. Used a straight stitch but it puckered up a bit so I switched to zigzag (3 width, 2.5 length). Sewed the pocket bag to the facing on the curve then flipped the pocket round and basted it into the top and side seams. Basting by hand, I don’t understand the reasoning behind machine basting, as it doesn’t give you any extra control.
Ignored the pattern and sewed the inseam before the crotch seam, as I wanted to send the inseam SA in different directions where they meet, and secure that when sewing over them. Sewed the side seam and roughly checked the fit – looks surprisingly good so far!! Somehow both much slinkier and smarter than I expected. Not sure now whether they do want to be cuffed and made into dungarees or not. If they do, maybe I want another pair of knit slinky trousers, who aren’t. No photos yet as I can’t hold them up and take pics at the same time.
Onto the waistband. The pattern says cuffs next, but I don’t know how long they are yet, so I’m ignoring that too. Wanted to know if the elasticated waistband can cope without interfacing, so I just interfaced a small section where the drawstring buttonholes will go, and then set out to make a test buttonhole on scraps. Boy am I glad I tested first. First out of the gate, I tried with the nap side up, and on the cross-grain (IE, in direction of stretch). It did not work. On the second leg of the buttonhole, the machine stopped moving the fabric along and it all got bunched up into a big thread knot.
Second go, nap side down and in direction of grain, was slightly better, but I still was worried the fabric wasn’t moving along enough, and it did start getting sucked down into the machine. Rather than watch it get stuck, I wanted to help it move along which isn’t the best of ideas, and turned the stitch length up to 1, which doesn’t make a good buttonhole (altho at least this knit doesn’t fray).
Third attempt – with an interfaced scrap – and if this doesn’t work I thought I might need to change tack.
But I really wanted a drawstring, and the thought of trying my first hand-sewn buttonholes in this slippery stretchy stuff really did not appeal, embroidery artist though I may have been. So, new plan – turned facing buttonholes, sort of like welt but no welts? I’m winging it
At first I tried them round, I guess I was thinking of grommets, but my stitched circle was clumsy, as was my clipping, and it didn’t lay flat when turned. Then I realised it doesn’t need to be round, and did a rectangle instead – success! I wouldn’t show them off to anyone, but to hold a string in my joggers, they’ll work.
Buttttt now it’s gone 11pm again, so the waistband will have to wait a couple days. Soon, I will get to wear these slinky trousers!!