This project is a (hopefully wearable) muslin test run for half of a more ambitious dream project, the part I’m testing now is crushed velour joggers. If it’s successful and the muslin is wearable, I’m hoping to add a bib and back piece to make these ones into dungarees (as I don’t need THAT many plain joggers), but we’ll cross that bridge when we get to it.
Working from the ‘Petite Stitchery’ free Adult Yoggers pattern (hate the Y in joggers, is that an American thing?). The pattern claims to be drafted for a 5’5″-5’7″ height, so at 5’9″ I was expecting to add 1-2″ to the leg length. But compared to a RTW pair that fit me generously, although the waist and crotch curve seem a good rough match, the leg length already looked pretty long. The waist measurement puts me at an XXL so I planned to make that with no alterations and figured I’d add an extra long cuff later if really necessary.
Side seam: RTW 34.5″ vs PS 37.5″. Inseam: RTW 27.5″ vs PS 28.5″. Rear crotch seam: RTW 15.5″ vs 14.5″ (with SA accounted for). So then I was really confused. Less room for seat in the PS pattern? The RTW pair are men’s and the pattern women’s but I don’t know enough about how that changes the draft. I would’ve assumed there’d be *more* room for hips/butt in a womenswear pattern. Decided not to change my mind, to go ahead and make the XXL as is and see.
My muslin fabric (I think it was £3/m from Masons in Abingdon) has not the best recovery, not pathetic, but not the best. So I’ll be cutting a waistband to match the width of the top and adding elastic, rather than relying on the stretch of the waistband fabric, and will consider doing the same with the cuffs as well (the pattern just has a drawstring with self-fabric waistband and cuffs).
The backs are 11.5″ at the top and the fronts 11″, so (11.5 + 11.5 + 11 + 11) – (3/8″ x 8) = 42″ should be the top circumference. Instead of a folded over waistband, I wanted to leave myself the option to decide about adding a dungaree bib later, which meant I needed the waistband in two pieces (front and back) so I could leave the top open. So I needed to cut two waistband pieces, each 42 3/4″ long and 2 3/4″ wide (2″ WB with 3/8″ SA top and bottom). (For curiosity’s sake, the unstretched, too-big, elasticated waistband on the RTW pair is 39″. That’s slightly too loose on my hips where my trousers hang, but comfy over the tummy if I wore them highwaisted. Worth bearing in mind when I evaluate where I want the dungarees waist to sit and how long an elasticate to cut.)
Drafted a pattern piece 21 3/8 x 2 3/4 to cut on the fold, then realised that’s silly – if my elastic’s 2″, I need wiggle room for elastic insertion and turn of cloth, so I widened it to 3″. I’m wary of 3/8″ SA on stretch knit but I’m trying it and we’ll see
I forced myself to trace off the XXL – the short time now will save a bunch if I need another size later, I don’t want to be paying for printing again and getting the pritt stick back out. A paper towel tube cut open lengthwise is working great to control my tracing paper and stop it unrolling away from me.
The nap isn’t visibly directional really, but you can feel it, so with cutting layout I was mindful of that, wanting it to run down the leg. I was also trying to preserve as much uninterrupted grainwise length as possible, in case I do go the dungaree conversion route, and need long non-stretch pieces for straps. I might be in with a shot of pulling it off, but I’m not sure – I was 4 or 5″ short of the ideal length which would’ve allowed me to stack the leg pieces on top of each other down the length. I guess I still have to get cuffs out of this as well. If I can’t do it, even with piecing, I’ll just sub in some black light faux suede I have which is a similar synthetic knit with a short crushed nap. Colour blocking options to make it look purposeful could include a patch pocket on the chest, and/or on the legs.
That’s now two garments cut out this evening, and their instructions carefully perused and adjusted. Mouse’s culottes are on their way in their fashion fabric too now! Synthetic stretch crepe was NOT a delight to cut. Wrangling pleats into that could be a challenge for me.
I’m evidently not going to meet my self-imposed deadline for my velvet dungarees of my 26th birthday (tomorrow) (nothing like an unrealistic emotionally-driven deadline to get me moving), but I think this is a good place to stop for now, and I’ve done most of the mental work of thinking things through. Maybe I can finish them for my top surgery anniversary (March 25th)!